After three days on board the Viking longship Rolf, Kathy and I, along with our fellow 180 explorers, had become accustomed to the rhythms of the cruise and the enjoyment of meeting new folks from around not only the States but also several other countries. I’m always amazed at how different yet how alike people all are, each with his or her own interesting story to tell. The average age of travelers was approximately the mid-sixties, with no one under eighteen permitted on board (have to admit that led to some mixed emotions as we enjoy being around youngsters—on the other hand it was quiet on the ship after about ten each evening!).
You might wonder about the accommodations on the Rolf—we had a stateroom (all rooms were exterior with most having floor to ceiling windows) that was furnished with a queen bed, large flat screen television, plenty of storage space, a really nice bathroom with shower, a veranda balcony that seated two comfortably and was used a lot to watch the riverscape flow by, and all done in a Scandinavian decor. The rest of the ship was also tastefully furnished and included a large dining area, lounge with an outstanding bar, enclosed glass terrace, a sun deck that featured a putting green, walking track, herb garden, tables and sunshades, etc. as well as an impressive reception and central staircase area.
Each day began with a great buffet breakfast featuring a typical variety of American foods but also with some European flair—think mushrooms, stewed tomatoes, baked beans, pickled herring (not a particular favorite of mine!), cold cuts, and many different breads, rolls, and pastries. By nine o’clock most mornings the onshore excursions would begin, usually with six groups each led by a local guide. The guides were very knowledgeable and spoke fluent English (although sometimes with a fairly heavy accent. Of course I’m sure they thought we had funny accents also!); thankfully we all had receivers with headphones so hearing them was no trouble. Sometimes we traveled by bus to certain areas, other times short walks took us from the boat to the various destinations.
Lunch was back on board the Rolf—then you had a choice of optional tours in the afternoon or you were free to do as you wanted (sometimes it was great just to watch the Rhine traffic pass by and relax). The evenings started with a short briefing on the next day’s activities and sometimes a program of interest about the culture and foods of the region we were passing through. Dinner was always a highlight of the day as you shared stories with others (Kathy and I always made it a point to dine with different people each night. Of course that might have been because two nights in a row with the Warners may have been too much for most!). Then there was a program or group activity that got everyone involved, everything from a local string quartet of professional musicians to Oldies trivia night with dancing, etc. ( I think the Oldies referred to music from the ‘60s and ‘70s but it may have meant the passengers also!). Fun times and a great way to end what was always a great day.
Our fourth day of sailing took us to Speyer, Germany and one of the main reasons we chose this particular cruise. The paternal side of my family tree all originated from within a 50-100 mile radius of southwestern Germany and passed through Speyer in the 1790s and very early 1800s in making their way down the Rhine first to Amsterdam, then to London and on to the States, settling in Pennsylvania before making the journey to west central Ohio in the mid-1830s. It gave me a sense of my family background to think of the Warners, Hartzells, Diningers, and Florys (a little Swiss blood thrown in the mix!) who ventured into the unknown not to mention the other relatives who also got off of their Butts and Keisters in starting out!
Speyer also was the site where the religious revolution begun by Martin Luther in Wittenberg, Germany in 1529 was given the title “Protestantism”. Speyer is a typical well maintained German city with a central market area and cathedral of some renown that has become a tourist attraction for multitudes each year. The history of each town is fascinating when you think back on the hundreds if not thousands of years of their being.
Day five of our cruising adventure was the highlight of most people’s voyage as the morning was spent sailing along the Middle Rhine River, a 40-mile stretch of ancient waterfront towns, hills and valleys, verdant vineyards, and 28 castles, each with a unique story to tell. Here you find the true heart of the Deutschland, the image you have of frauleins, lederhosen, small villages, scenic beauty, the Lorelei (the doomed lover who turned into a siren and lured sailors to their deaths with her beautiful singing), and a simple yet sophisticated European lifestyle. It was truly a memorable few hours!
I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that the Middle Rhine is the heart of the German wine industry. Until the past 20-30 years French wines were considered superior to those of Germany (Mark Twain had a great quote upon visiting there in the late 1800s—“The Germans are exceedingly fond of Rhine wines; they are put up in tall, slender bottles, and are considered a pleasant beverage. One tells them from vinegar by the label.”). I have to take exception with that remark because the Rieslings and Pinot Noirs were, to my truly unsophisticated taste, pretty satisfying!
We ended the day in the city of Koblenz, located at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers and the site of the historic German Corner. A huge statue and memorial of Prince William the First oversees the waters and beautiful central market area of this bustling community. William was the first German Emperor after the 1871 unification of smaller Germanic states behind Prussia, a result of three short wars against Denmark, Austria, and France led by the Prussian President Otto von Bismarck. It’s hard to comprehend that Germany as most of us think of it is almost 100 years younger than the United States!
For those few hardy souls still hanging in there with me as I prattle on, the third and final installment of this journey will be forthcoming in the next few days here at MyCountyLink.com. Ach du lieber!!
